Northbound on Ruta Nacional 40

We had a lot of distance to cover from Argentina’s Southern Patagonia back to Santiago in Chile. On Argentina’s side of the Andes, Ruta Nacional 40 runs almost the entire length of the country along the continent’s rocky spine. There is however, much less to see on this side of the mountain range, which is why we drove a lot and stopped mostly to sleep on our way North. The first night after Cuevas de los Manos, we stopped at another estancia in the sleepy town of Río Mayo. We came across a small town about every 200 kilometers, so it is very important to remember to fill up gas at every opportunity. It is hard for us to imagine what life in these remote villages might be like.

Ruta Nacional 40

Armadillo trying to hide from Sam’s camera

For the next night we drove to Parque Nacional Los Alerces, near the town of Esquel. There, we found a beautiful campground at Lago Futalaufquen which was almost empty. Luckily, as we drove North, it also started getting warmer and camping got more enjoyable.

Road between Esquel and Parque Nacional Los Alerces

Sam drinking a Patagonia Amber Lager at Lago Futalaufquen in Parque Nacional Los Alerces

The most beautiful area along the road was around the town of Bariloche, where we stopped for two nights. Bariloche was founded by Swiss immigrants and it is easy to see what drew them to this place. The town is surrounded by lakes, forests and mountains. The Swiss brought with them the craft of chocolate making and Bariloche is now known in Argentina as the place where the best chocolate comes from. We also found the best ice cream since we left Switzerland here.

Chocolate shop in Bariloche

Catedral Nuestra Señora del Nahuel Huapi in Bariloche

Juicy steak

Lago Nahuel Huapi

Bariloche and Lago Nahuel Huapi from Cerro Otto

The 180 kilometer section of Ruta Nacional 40 between Bariloche and San Martín de los Andes is known as Ruta de los Siete Lagos, because it passes seven different lakes. With a few short side trips, we managed to bring the lake count up to eleven. Since there are very few villages in this area, the lakes are all superbly clear. We spent the next night in San Martín de los Andes, which is like a smaller and more charming version of Bariloche. We enjoyed this small town a lot and could have easily spent a couple more days there.

Lago Espejo Chico

Lago Traful and Villa Traful

Boats at Lago Traful

Waterfall along the Ruta de los Siete Lagos

The landscape went back to flat and boring after San Martín de los Andes and we drove a lot the next three days. We camped for two nights on the way North. First in Chos Malal, a town we will remember only because it happens to be the midpoint of Ruta Nacional 40 and because of the confusing amount of police. We have never seen a higher police presence anywhere in Argentina than in Chos Malal and we have no idea why. The second night we camped in Malargüe next to a trout farm out of town. For dinner, the owner caught and grilled two fresh fish for us.

Sam in Chos Malal with the sign marking the midpoint of Ruta Nacional 40

Our car on an unpaved segment of Ruta Nacional 40 between Chos Malal and Malargüe

Ruta Nacional 40 shortly before Malargüe