A Travellerspoint blog

The Big Island of Hawai’i - Part 1

Hilo and the rainy East Coast

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Flying eastwards over the Pacific is probably the closest one can get to experience travelling back in time in the real world. We left Tokyo on Friday evening and landed in Honolulu on the morning of that same Friday. That magic was made possible by crossing the international date line. Our Friday, 30th of November lasted 43 hours and had two sunrises and two sunsets.

Coming to Hawaii was always our dream and we are happy we managed to fulfil it. One of the most beautiful archipelagos in the world, it is so far away from Europe that it only makes sense to come here when flying around the globe. Hawaii is the youngest state of the USA and has its own distinctive culture. Before it was acquired by the USA in 1959, it was inhabited by native Hawaiians whose roots are in French Polynesia.

We have decided to start our Hawaiian adventure on the Big Island, also known as Hawai’i. It is the youngest of the islands in the archipelago and it is still getting larger due to volcanic activity. Following advice of fellow travelers, we split our time between the Western and the Eastern part of the island. Our first five nights we spent in Hilo, the biggest town on the island. Hilo is located on the east side of the island, where it rains almost every day. It is not quite the weather one would expect in Hawaii, but it also means that the landscape is lush and green.

On our first day, we met Sam’s friends Elias and Michelle, who happened to be vacationing there at the same time. Together, we drove to the top of Mauna Kea (4207 meters above sea level) to see the astronomical observatories. The summit of Mauna Kea enjoys 300 days of cloudless sky and thanks to Hawaii’s latitude, 100% of the northern hemisphere’s sky and 80% of the southern hemisphere’s sky is visible, making this a perfect place to observe far away galaxies. Research teams from all around the world apply with their proposals for observatory time, but only 20% of them are accepted. After the summit, we drove down to the Visitor Information Station to join the University of Hawaii’s stargazing program. All the visible constellations and planets in the exceptionally clear night sky were pointed out to us with laser pointers. Through huge telescopes we were able to see the Andromeda galaxy and several other important intergalactic bodies.


Over the next days we visited several scenic locations, including Carlsmith Coastal Park, where we could observe turtles basking on the beach and swim with them in the shallow waters. In the past, Polynesian people considered these animals sacred and never killed them, therefore the turtles in Hawaii are not afraid of people. Some of the turtles were as long as 1.5 meters and had enormous teeth. Another attraction was Waipio Valley in the north, were we felt like on the set of Jurassic Park. Due to the large amount of rain, there is also an abundance of waterfalls on the east side of the island.


We dedicated one day of our visit to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, which just reopened after recent eruptions. There, we did some short hikes to the Kilauea crater, looked at fuming steam vents and walked on hardened lava rocks. The park’s visitor center does a pretty good job in showcasing recent volcanic activity and there is one video which shows the red lava flows from April 2018 which destroyed 700 homes. When we visited, there were no active lava flows, but the Kilauea Volcano is still active and nobody knows when the next eruption is going to happen.


Posted by samandmarta 13:57 Archived in USA Comments (0)


Our last days in Asia

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Our final destination in Japan was Tokyo, one of the world’s largest cities with more than 25 million inhabitants. The size of the city however, is not really visible from street level. No area in Tokyo feels as large as for example Manhattan in New York, or Pudong in Shanghai. The size of the city can best be grasped by the huge crowds that fill the subways and trains during the day and the entertainment districts at night. This city never sleeps.


There are many nice parks and gardens in the city as well. The special attraction in autumn are the ginkgo trees with their bright yellow leaves. This meant that every place which had more than a few of those trees was hosting autumn leaves festivals and was therefore very crowded.


We spent one day around Tokyo Bay. This is the newest and most modern part of the city. A replica of the Statue of Liberty overlooks the bay and a giant Transformer-like robot stands in the middle of the park. We decided to visit the National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation to get a look at the futuristic side of Tokyo. Our favourite part of the exhibition was the demonstration of Honda’s humanoid robot ASIMO. The robot was remarkably agile. Kicking a football proved the ability to balance on one leg while talking in sign language demonstrated the precise coordination of finger and hand movements.


Tokyo has a traditional side too. There are countless temples and shrines throughout the city. We visited only one of them though, the Buddhist temple Fukagawa Fudo-do. We attended a special ceremony there in the evening. The head monk was sitting in the middle in front of the altar where he was starting a fire that grew bigger and bigger, while the monks chanted their prayer towards that fire. Different exotic instruments were played and after a while, two young monks started to hit their giant drums so hard, it would have made a Metallica concert jealous. At the end of the ceremony, most attendants went to the altar and gave their bags or other belongings to the head monk, who raised them above the fire for blessing.

Tokyo is also a center for a variety of delicious Japanese food. We were lucky to taste tender wagyu beef at a teppanyaki restaurant. We ate lunch at Gonpachi, the restaurant which inspired the set for the famous sword fighting scene in Kill Bill. One evening we also tried yakitori, which are chicken skewers usually eaten accompanied by alcohol like sake or beer. Overall, we had the best food so far on our travels here in Japan. You would really have to try hard to find a bad restaurant in this country.


Our stay in Tokyo concluded our 25 day journey through Japan. We might come back one day to explore Northern Honshu and Hokkaido, which are better visited in summer. It also concluded four months of travelling through Asia. We were blessed with great weather almost every day and had many unforgettable experiences, but it was also an intense time. The next six weeks we will spend on Pacific islands and we look forward to warmer weather and relaxing days at the beach.

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Central Honshu

Mount Fuji, Kanazawa & Matsumoto

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The next item on our Japan agenda was Mount Fuji, probably Japan’s most recognizable symbol. Travelling in Japan is very fast and efficient, as long as you stick to the destinations reachable by Shinkansen. But when veering a bit away from that high speed route, travelling times can get much longer. Getting to our location next to Mount Fuji from Kyoto took more than 5 hours. We stayed in Fujiyoshida in the northeast of the mountain, in a region called Fuji Five Lakes. On the day we arrived, the weather was dark and cloudy and we could not see any part of the mountain. The next day the weather cleared up around us, but not around the mountain. Since climbing Mount Fuji is only possible in summer, we instead hiked around Lake Kawaguchi, one of the Fuji Five Lakes, hoping to see the mountain from there. The 18km hike around the lake was very beautiful and for the most part, devoid of other people, but the mountain remained mostly in clouds.


With the strong resolution to see Mount Fuji while we were there, we got up at 6am on the day of our departure and went again to Lake Kawaguchi. This time, the weather around the mountain was clear, but morning mist was hanging over the lake, obscuring all but the top of Mount Fuji. With each minute however, the mist got thinner, until it finally disappeared completely and gave us that perfect view of Mount Fuji we came here for.


Our original plan for the four days after Mount Fuji was to rent a car and drive from Kanazawa to Nagano through the Japanese Alps. However, we found out that Sam’s driving license and even his international driver’s license are not accepted in Japan. Interestingly enough, there is some 1949 Geneva Convention on international driving licenses which Switzerland is not part of and therefore their international driver’s license is not accepted. To avoid the complicated process of getting the right to drive in Japan, we dropped this plan and just stayed in Kanazawa and Matsumoto instead.

Kanazawa is located to the north of Kyoto at the Sea of Japan. Not so many tourists travel there, but we found it to be a very interesting city. Inside the underpass between the train station and our hotel, there was a grand piano with the note “Please feel free to play”. On many occasions we saw a very skilled woman there, playing concert-level piano in her parka. It was raining for most of the day when we were there, so a stop at the local fish market seemed like a good idea. The large amount of raw crabs, shrimps, squid and octopus were an interesting sight, but did not increase our appetite. When it cleared up towards the evening, we visited Kenroku-en, one of Japan’s finest gardens. The garden was quite full despite the gloomy weather.


Our two days in Matsumoto were part of the Labor Thanksgiving Day weekend in Japan and already weeks in advance, there was almost no room in the city left. The only option was to stay in a capsule hotel, something we wanted to try anyway while in Japan. The nights in the roughly 1x1x2 meter capsules were not uncomfortable and there was more privacy than you would have in a regular hostel dormitory. But for a honeymoon it is obviously not a great choice and it was the first time since our wedding that we slept in separate rooms.


Matsumoto is most famous for its original wooden castle from the 16th century. The castle is still standing because it was never attacked. This must have surprised the shogun who built it, since he dedicated an entire floor for his honor preserving suicide in case the castle would fall to the enemy. Besides the castle, we also enjoyed the views of the Japanese Alps from the city’s secluded parks.


We also had some great culinary experiences in Kanazawa and Matsumoto. In Kanazawa we had the best sushi so far, with tuna and salmon that almost melted in our mouth. Almost equally tender was the Wagyu beef we tried here for the first time. In Matsumoto Sam had his favourite Japanese food so far, a simple bowl of ramen noodles in a broth based on miso paste and pork, topped with ham and ground beef. Lastly, the Matcha (powdered green tea, very popular in Japan) parfait we had in Matsumoto was a great combination of different flavors and textures.


Posted by samandmarta 19:00 Archived in Japan Comments (0)

Kyoto and around

Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Himeji & Koya-san

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After Hiroshima, we headed east towards Kyoto, the cultural capital of Japan. But before Kyoto, we did a little detour to Koya-san, a mountainous village mostly consisting of Buddhist temples. There we stayed a night in a traditional Japanese room in one of those temples. For dinner, the monks prepared for us a delicious meal of Shojin-ryori, which is essentially kaiseki without meat or fish. The best part of a temple stay in Koya-san though, happens very early in the morning. At 6am we were invited into Hondo, the main prayer hall, to join the monks in their morning prayer ceremony. As part of the ceremony we were asked to burn incenses and even chanted a prayer (Heart Sutra) with them.


We left quiet Koya-san behind and set up our base for 6 nights in busy Kyoto. This city is not only packed with beautiful temples and gardens, it is also a great base to explore nearby cities like Nara, Osaka or Himeji. We had great difficulty finding accommodation here as mid-November is peak Momiji (autumn leaves) season. Together with Sakura (cherry blossom) season, this is the most popular time of the year. It was easy to see why Kyoto is so popular at this time. The different gardens and temples look almost unreal with the autumn leaves in deep shades of green, yellow, orange and red, all perfectly mirrored in calm waters of lakes and ponds.


Due to the high season however, it was sometimes difficult to enjoy this beauty. The temples and gardens were all filled to the brim with people. Going on a weekday or getting up early did nothing to help this, since countless groups of school children on excursions joined the tourists at those times. Entering these places sometimes felt like queueing up for the exit as the entire sightseeing route was spent in endless lines of people. Kyoto was not a very Zen experience.

Our favorite among the places we visited was the Fushimi Inari-Taisha shrine. The famous walkways with the seemingly endless vermilion Torii gates were no less packed at the start. But when climbing higher up the hill on the nearly 5 kilometers long path, it got more empty and more enjoyable. The path to the top is lined with many little shrines and graveyards, all with their own collection of miniature Torii gates. It was a truly magical place.


We visited Nara on a day-trip from Kyoto. Japan’s 8th century capital is home to a huge park, filled with shrines, temples, gardens and hundreds of tame deer. Nara is most famous for the 15 meter tall Daibutsu, Japan’s largest Buddha statue. We were strolling through the park, when a group of school kids approached us. They were tasked to practice their English on tourists. After answering some simple questions, they awarded us for our cooperation with a nice painting.


A short Shinkansen ride from Kyoto lies Himeji. We came to the town to see the castle Himeji-jo, said to be the most beautiful in all of Japan. The castle did not disappoint. All in white, it thrones over the small city. We were surprised at how few people were visiting the castle that day. Probably everyone was in Kyoto. We could even go inside the completely wooden building and enjoy the view over Himeji from the top. Next to the castle there was also a very beautiful garden, Koko-en, which was very enjoyable given the few other people around.


Our last side-trip from Kyoto brought us to Osaka. The city is the birth-place of conveyor-belt sushi, so of course we had to try it there. The park around the castle Osaka-jo made for an enjoyable afternoon stroll, but the best sight of Osaka comes to life only after sunset. The entertainment district Dotonbori was a refreshingly different experience from the cultural sights of Kyoto. Blinking neon signs and crazy decorations scream for attention in this mad street. Our favorite was the giant, moving crab advertising a restaurant.


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Kyushu & Western Honshu

Fukuoka, Kagoshima, Kurokawa Onsen, Kumamoto, Miyajima & Hiroshima

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We spent our first four days in Japan in Kyushu, the smallest and most southern of the three major islands of the country. It is not on the main tourist route, as it is a bit far from Tokyo, and we only stayed there because it was the most convenient point of entry from South Korea. Having said that, Kyushu ended up exceeding our expectations and we wished we had stayed there longer. There are many beautiful places to explore and they are mostly quiet and serene.

Our time in Kyushu started with the early morning arrival in Fukuoka, the island’s largest city. We spent one day in this town and were pleasantly surprised by the beautiful gardens, temples and Shinto shrines. All the sights were either empty or at most visited by a handful of locals, which made our day a very relaxing one.


The next day we took the Shinkansen down to a very special city in the south of Kyushu. Kagoshima is located right next to a small island with a very active volcano, called Sakurajima. The volcano erupts on average once every 8 hours, but the small eruptions do not usually cause harm to the city. However, it is not uncommon for ash to fall over Kagoshima. While we were not fortunate enough to witness this, we did see smoke raising from the volcano during our entire stay. We took the ferry to the volcano in the afternoon and enjoyed a peaceful stroll along its shore. To end the day we had a relaxing foot bath, fueled by the heat of the volcano, in a park on this island.


For a traditional Japanese experience, we headed to Kurokawa Onsen next. The secluded hot-spring village was the perfect spot to unwind and regain energy for our next adventures. We stayed in a ryokan, which is a traditional Japanese guesthouse where floors are covered with tatami mats and eating and sleeping is done on the ground. There, we were served an amazing kaiseki dinner to our room. Kaiseki is the Japanese version of haute-cuisine, where you are served many tiny plates with different, artistically arranged dishes. If you thought this would not be filling, you would be wrong. Every 10 minutes or so, we were served another couple of plates, until we were grateful for the dessert which marked the end of the dinner. To make the evening even better, our ryokan also had it’s own onsens (hot spring pools). After some time in and out of the hot water, we went back to the room and slept like babies.


For our last day in Kyushu, we stayed in Kumamoto. The city’s landmark, the castle Kumamoto-jo, was unfortunately still under reconstruction, after being damaged by an earthquake two years ago. Instead, we visited the garden Suizenji-jojuen. The garden featured an extremely photogenic pond and even had a miniature Mount Fuji. We also loved Kumamoto’s cuddly mascot Kumamon. It was difficult to find a spot in the town where you could not see its cute face smiling at you.


After we had left Kyushu, we spent an afternoon wandering around the island of Miyajima near Hiroshima. The island is mostly famous for its Floating Torii, a large Shinto gate built in the shallow water in front of a shrine. There were, however, also many nice gardens and temples on this island to discover. For the first time in Japan, we had to deal with the big crowds that the major attractions draw, especially since it was a Saturday.


Sunday we spent in Hiroshima, where the main “attraction” is the city’s tragic history as the world’s first target of an atomic bomb attack. A beautiful park in the center of the city is dedicated to the victims of this event. Many monuments are scattered throughout the park, for the memory of the deceased and for a future world without nuclear weapons. The most impressive sight in the park is the Atomic Bomb Dome, a building that was almost in the epicenter of the explosion and one of very few that was not completely destroyed by it. The building was left unchanged since then, neither demolished nor reconstructed, as a memorial to the tragic event. We also visited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, where the gripping tale of the first atomic bomb attack is told. From the early development of nuclear weapons to the horrifying effect the bomb had on the civilians affected by it. We ended the day on a lighter note with a visit to the city’s castle, Hiroshima-jo.


Besides the many interesting sights and the beautiful weather, we were also spoilt by the amazing food during our first six days in Japan. Of course we had some great sushi, but we also enjoyed the many local specialties that can be found in every city. Fukuoka is the birthplace of ramen noodles and their tonkotsu ramen, with a broth made from pork bones, is incredibly flavorful. In Hiroshima, we had okonomiyaki prepared in front of us on a steel plate. These pancakes are filled with cabbage and bacon and topped with noodles and a savory sauce. Last but not least, we loved the dozens of little dessert shops at the Kumamoto train station. Based on things like bean paste, sweet potato or macha tea, these desserts were not as sweet as candy, but just as addictive. We apologize if this paragraph made you hungry.

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